Aira Force and Gowbarrow Fell Ullswater Dog Walk
Walk Stats
| Start/finish: National Trust pay-and-display car park at Aira Force, near Watermillock, Penrith CA11 0JS (grid reference NY 401 200) | |||
| Terrain: Well-maintained woodland paths, including constructed walkway; open fell, mostly on good paths but with some potentially muddy sections. | |||
| Dog-friendly refreshments: The Aira Force tearoom, a two-minute walk from the car park, allows dogs inside and out. | |||
| Notes for dog owners: No stiles; livestock might be encountered on the open fell; steep drops from some of the paths in the gorge. |
Overview
"I’d be hard pushed to choose just one thing about this walk that makes it so special… Is it the historic arboretum in the Aira gorge, home to some grand old trees that have withstood decades of Lakeland storms? Is it the powerful beck that comes thundering through the gorge in a whirling torrent until it finally plunges over a lip of rock to form one of the National Park’s most dramatic waterfalls? Or is it the jaw-dropping scene of Ullswater and the Helvellyn range that is suddenly revealed as the gorgeous fell path rounds a bend on Gowbarrow?"
Whichever it is, you’re in for a treat on this short, but slightly tougher walk to the north of Ullswater. Allow plenty of time for enjoying the scenery..."
The Walk
From the far end of the car park, take the path leading up towards the gorge. After entering the walled arboretum, it quickly crosses a small beck and splits. Keep right here, soon descending steps to cross a larger bridge over Aira Beck.
Many of the trees in this arboretum were planted by the Howard family of Greystoke. They were lords of the manor here from the late Middle Ages until they sold the land to the National Trust in 1906. As well as the ancient yews and Chilean pines (monkey puzzle trees) as you entered the gorge, you’ll soon pass a 180-year-old sitka spruce with a whopping girth of about 20ft (6m). And while you’re standing, gazing at it in awe, your dog is probably peeing on it!
Climbing the eastern side of the gorge, bear left when the path splits again – signposted ‘Sitka spruce path and waterfall’ – later joining a metal walkway fixed to the steep slopes. When this ends, ignore the steps on the right and cross the bridge at the base of Aira Force to enjoy the classic view of the waterfall.
After the long flight steps on the far side, bear right and then fork right to descend a few steps and cross the humpback bridge over the top of the waterfall. Bear left and, almost immediately, fork left along the ‘Woodland path to High Cascades’. Joining a higher path, bear left again. Keep right at the next fork – above a bridge – and later ignore a second bridge. The woodland soon starts to thin out and you pass through a gate on to more open ground.
Just before the next gate, take the path on the right – signposted ‘Gowbarrow summit’. Go through a gate and then keep close to the wall on the left to climb the western slopes of Gowbarrow Fell. It’s steep at times, but there is stone pitching to ease your progress in places.
Having followed the wall for about 750 yards (685m), the path trends right – towards the trig pillar. Reaching a junction at the base of Airy Crag, the heathery knoll on which the trig pillar sits, turn right. The path quickly swings left to reach the top.
The hills lining the distant horizon to the east are the North Pennines, the highest tops along England’s backbone; stacking up to the south-east are the many ridges of the eastern fells. It’s a great view, but there’s even better to come…
From the top, retrace your steps to the junction at the base of Airy Crag and then keep right, passing directly below the crag. This winds its way through the bracken and heather on the north-east side of Gowbarrow. A little over ½ mile (900m) from the trig pillar, and with Ullswater straight ahead, it drops towards a fingerpost next to a gate. (OS maps indicate a shooting hut here, but its scant remains are hard to spot among the bracken.) Bear right here, to begin a wonderful section of the route, traversing steep slopes on a good path high above sparkling Ullswater.
About ¾ mile (1.2km) beyond the shooting hut ruins, you round a bend in the path and are suddenly greeted by one of the most magnificent panoramas in the eastern Lakes. The western expanse of Ullswater is revealed, blue and inviting, with the dark, craggy Helvellyn range forming the perfect backdrop.
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Far below, at the base of Gowbarrow, is another inspiring scene: the woodland here is said to have stirred William Wordsworth to write his most famous poem. Having walked through the woods with him on 15 April 1802, his sister Dorothy noted in her diary: — Dorothy Wordsworth’s diary, 15 April 1802 |
With Ullswater directly ahead, the path soon begins losing height. You eventually reach a junction near the edge of the fenced woodland. Go through the small gate to the left and then keep left as you descend. After crossing Aira Beck, keep left at any path junctions to retrace your steps to the car park where the walk started.
Vivienne Crow has written a number of Lake District guidebooks. Her latest titles include Outstanding Walks Lake District, published by Ordnance Survey.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Yes, Blanchland is a wonderfully dog-friendly walk with no stiles on the entire route. Dogs can enjoy the riverside path, woodland tracks and quiet lanes. We would advise keeping them on the lead through Deborah Plantation, where roe deer are frequently spotted.
Yes, there is a National Trust pay-and-display car park at the start of the walk near Watermillock. Satnav postcode: CA11 0JS. It can fill up quickly on busy during the spring and summer and on bank-holiday weekends, so an early start is recommended.
The Aira Force tearoom is just a two-minute walk from the car park and welcomes dogs inside and out, ideal for a coffee before you set off or a well-earned slice of cake afterwards.
This is a moderate walk of 4.4 miles taking approximately 2¾ hours. The gorge section uses well-maintained paths and a constructed walkway, but the climb onto Gowbarrow Fell is steep in places. The descent back to the car park is straightforward.
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